Embarking on a journey to Buscalan, a secluded village in Kalinga, Philippines, is not just a travel experience; it’s a pilgrimage to the heart of ancient artistry. Whang-Od Oggay, the centenarian and the last mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist) of her generation, has put Buscalan on the global map. Travelers and tattoo enthusiasts from around the world flock to this remote village to receive a tattoo from her, a mark not just of beauty but of bravery, tradition, and history.

From Manila International Airport to Buscalan, Kalinga

The journey to Buscalan begins at Manila International Airport. From Manila, the most common route is to take a bus or a private vehicle to Bontoc, Mountain Province, which is about 10 to 12 hours. From Bontoc, another hour’s journey by jeepney or hired motorcycle will get you to the jumping-off point for Buscalan. The last leg of the journey involves a trek, which can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on your pace.

Traveling to Buscalan, Kalinga, involves a series of steps that take you deep into the heart of the Cordilleras. Here’s a bulletized guide to navigate your journey:

• Start at Manila International Airport: Your journey begins in Manila, the capital city of the Philippines.
• Travel to Baguio City:
  • Take a bus from Manila to Baguio City. The trip usually takes about 6 hours.
  • Enjoy a meal break and explore Baguio, known for its cool climate and pine trees.
• Proceed to Bontoc, Mountain Province:
  • From Baguio, board a bus or a van going to Bontoc. This leg takes approximately 6 hours.
  • The route offers scenic views of the mountainous terrain.
• Bontoc to Buscalan Jump-off Point:
  • In Bontoc, find a jeepney or hire a motorcycle (habal-habal) to take you to the turning point for Buscalan. This ride is about an hour.
  • This is your last chance for modern conveniences before the trek.
• Trek to Buscalan Village:
  • From the drop-off point, begin the trek to Buscalan. Depending on your pace, this can take between 15 minutes to an hour.
  • The path is well-trodden but can be steep in places, so good footwear is recommended.
• Tips for the Journey:
  • Pack Light: Carry only essentials to make the trek easier.
  • Stay Hydrated: Bring water for the journey, especially for the trek.
  • Local Guides: Employing a local guide is not just helpful but also a way to contribute to the local economy.
  • Cash: Make sure to bring enough cash as there are no ATMs in Buscalan.
  • Respect Local Customs: Learn about and respect the local culture and traditions.

By following these steps and tips, you’ll be well-prepared for your journey to Buscalan, Kalinga, ready to experience the rich culture and breathtaking landscapes that await.

Food Stops

Along the way, especially if you’re traveling by bus or car, there are numerous places to indulge in local cuisine. Notable stops include Baguio City, known for its fresh strawberries and ube (purple yam) delicacies, and Bontoc, where you can enjoy hearty Igorot dishes like pinikpikan (a traditional chicken soup) and etag (smoked pork).

Tattoo Booking with Whang-Od

To ensure a session with Whang-Od, it’s crucial to plan your visit well in advance. Due to her age and the high demand, her availability can be limited. Contact local guides in Buscalan via social media or phone as they can provide the latest information and assist with bookings. Remember, patience and respect for the process are essential.

One of the local tour guides we have known was Remy:

Alternative Tattoo Artists

If Whang-Od is not available, fear not. Her grandnieces, Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan, are skilled mambabatok who have been trained under Whang-Od’s guidance. They continue the tradition with the same dedication and skill, ensuring the art form survives for future generations.

Nearby Tourist Spots

Kalinga is not just about tattoos. It’s a region rich in culture and natural beauty. Nearby attractions include the Chico River, perfect for whitewater rafting; the historic Banaue Rice Terraces; and the hot springs of Tinglayan. Each offers a unique glimpse into the natural and cultural heritage of the Cordilleras.

Preparing for Your Visit

Visiting Whang-Od and Buscalan requires preparation. Essential tips include:

• Fitness Level: The trek to Buscalan is manageable for most, but being in good physical condition will make the journey more enjoyable.
• Cultural Sensitivity: Understand and respect the local customs and traditions. Dress modestly and ask permission before taking photos.
• Cash: There are no ATMs in Buscalan, so bring enough cash for your entire stay.
• Accommodations: Homestays are the primary option in Buscalan, offering a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in local life.

Experiences with Whang-Od

Visitors often share stories of Whang-Od’s warm hospitality and her sharp sense of humor. Despite the language barrier, her welcoming nature makes every encounter memorable. Receiving a tattoo from her is described as a deeply moving experience, connecting the individual to centuries of tradition.

Whang-Od Clan History and Traditions

Whang-Od belongs to the Butbut tribe in Kalinga, where the art of batok (tattooing) has been passed down for generations. Traditionally, these tattoos were earned by warriors and headhunters for their acts of bravery. Today, Whang-Od uses the same traditional tools—a bamboo stick and a thorn from a pomelo tree—to create these tattoos. Each design is symbolic, representing elements of nature, tribal identity, and personal milestones.

The story of Whang-Od and the Kalinga tattooing tradition is a testament to the resilience of indigenous cultures. It’s a reminder of the beauty that comes from preserving and respecting ancient traditions.

Traveling to Buscalan to meet Whang-Od is more than just a quest for a tattoo; it’s an adventure into the heart of the Cordilleras, offering a rare glimpse into a way of life that has remained unchanged for centuries. It’s a journey that challenges, rewards, and transforms, leaving an indelible mark both on the skin and the soul.